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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary triumph.